Play Up Your Peepers
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When makeup artist icon Pat McGrath was tasked with transforming actress Rooney Mara from sweet to subversive for her role as Lisbeth Salander in “The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo,” she conjured a rebellious vibe with blunt bangs, black hair, bleached brows and moody makeup. The dark hues soon saturated the Fall 2012 runways, where McGrath was a creative fixture. Here’s how to add some of that bad gal edge to your own beauty look.
Dark Smoky Eyes
To lend danger to smoky eyes, “exaggerate black shadow,” says McGrath, describing the look at Versace. Blend matte black on lids and out past crease, and smudge below the lower lash. Follow with a bold stroke of liquid liner on top, and pencil the inner bottom rim black. For lighter wearability, don’t blend past the crease, and skip bottom shading.
The urban ice queen mani at Behnaz Sarafpour appeared to drip straight out of the liquid metallic opening credits of the movie. “Industrial silver is unapologetically promiscuous, strong and sophisticated when paired with Lisbeth’s wardrobe of leather and studs,” observes CND co-founder Jan Arnold. While foil coated these nails, you can mimic the look with CND Colour in Silver Chrome.
This come-hither style can look seductive or punk, depending on how thickly you line. “Don’t go straight to liquid eyeliner to fill in black unless you’re Van Gogh,” warns McGrath. Instead, first sketch the shape outline with pencil, then fill in with shadow. Stop here to impart Sophia Loren—or top with thick liquid liner to rock it, Lisbeth style.
Burnt burgundy added edge to glamour at YSL. “It evokes Paris, a vintage sense of nostalgia,” says McGrath. For impact, it’s imperative the face remain neutral with a touch of mascara. For blood red lacquered lips, McGrath mixed CoverGirl Queen Collection Lipcolor in Fine Wine with Euphoria, and topped with Dolce & Gabbana Lipgloss in Acqua.
McGrath seemingly couldn’t get enough of the bleached brow she created for Lisbeth, as the anarchist look marched across multiple runways. You can fake it with a high pigment concealer like Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer, says celeb makeup artist Andrew Sotomayor. “Brush the concealer against the growth of brows, and then in the direction of the hair,” instructs Sotomayor.
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