There’s nothing more beautiful than long, lustrous curls. But for women with this hair type, perfect spirals are almost impossible to achieve. Heat and humidity, rain and wind—they’re at the mercy of the weather. The climate, literally, dictates how their hair will behave.
Mechanics of a Curly Haircut
Because no curls are created equal, the cut is that much more important. Your stylist needs to consider the diameter of the curl, as well as its spring factor—how loose or how tight. The curl pattern and how it fits together is also a critical detail. “There’s really no room for error. You have to understand curly hair and strategically plan your cut,” notes Ouidad.If the hair is cut blunt, it creates a boxy, almost pyramid-like effect.
If thinned or texturized (a technique used to add dimension) the balance of each wave is thrown off, creating an uneven pattern and increased frizz. Dry cutting is not recommended—the hair should be freshly washed and conditioned before cutting. “You need to work with the natural nature of curl. Curly hair dries differently every time so you need to cut it wet to guarantee a balanced, well-fit cut,” says Ouidad.
The technique most curly haired specialists use is known as carving and slicing. How it works: hair is cut with the curvature of the curl pattern so the curls fit together like a puzzle, as opposed to stacking. The carving and slicing process removes bulk while enhancing the natural curl pattern, resulting in curls that gracefully cascade and are easier to manage (less friction, less frizz).
Haircuts for Long, Curly Hair
For women with long curly hair, you can go blunt along the bottom (the weight of the hair at this length allows for this), but your stylist should slice the outer layer to create movement and keep the hair from appearing triangular. The perfect example: Nicole Kidman, whose hair falls to one length, with strategically placed shorter pieces to create enviable shape, bounce and flow.
Haircuts for Medium, Curly Hair
Medium length, or hair that sweeps the shoulder when dry, looks best when curls are sliced shorter and at different lengths to create movement and maintain balance among the curls (think Katherine Heigl). One thing to note with all lengths, but particularly medium: never layer. Layering is the process of cutting hair straight across at an even level. Curls need to be cut to fit—each one gently meeting the next.
Haircuts for Short, Curly Hair