After enduring this overly long and misery-inducing winter, we’re ready to do whatever it takes to transform from pasty to glowing. Makeup can provide a big assist when it comes to luminosity, but it can also draw attention to any flaws. Knowing which formula to apply—and where—will help you look bright and alive, regardless of skin type. Hello, spring, let’s do this.Universal TipBlair Patterson, Director, Global Makeup Artistry for Estée Lauder says pretty much anyone can benefit from a touch of highlighter applied to the highest part of the cheekbones.

Illustrations by Valerie Fischel
If you are oily or combination

If you are oily or combinationDO dust translucent powder only on areas that tend to get shiny (not all over, since powder can accentuate the drier spots) to absorb oil before going in with the highlighter, says makeup artist Emily Kate Warren.DON’T choose a creamy highlighter. Warren suggests a dry-touch, velvety formula, like Dermalogica SkinPerfect Primer SPF 30, which she claims is the perfect combo of sheen and highlight.DO keep in mind that placement is key when it comes to accentuating the complexion with a radiant glow, says Jo Levy, Director of Artistry and Education for Rouge Bunny Rouge. She suggests applying a powder or oil-free, lightweight liquid or gel only on the high parts of the cheekbones and the inner corners of the eyes.DON’T place highlighter on the center of the nose or the apples of the cheeks, because that will just emphasize enlarged pores.

If you are dry

If you are dryDO choose a creamy, hydrating formula, says celebrity makeup artist Joanna Schlip. She says that a moisturizing all-over product, like Physicians Formula Bronze Booster Glow-Boosting BB Cream SPF 20, will provide a radiant glow without accentuating flaky bits.DON’T be afraid to mix a few different products together for a perfectly luminous finish. Patterson likes to apply cream blush and Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II on top of the cheek, over the blush, “for added moisture and luminosity,” he says.DO Mix a few drops of liquid highlighter (try Revlon Photoready Skinlights)  into your regular moisturizer; Levy says this will give all-over, radiant finish, while diffusing lines and pigmentation issues.

If you have fine lines around your eyes

If you have fine lines around your eyesDO prep the eye area with a specialized product, like Clarins Instant Smooth Perfecting Touch, to help smooth out texture and prevent makeup from settling into fine lines and making them appear more prominent.DON’T apply highlighter to the wrinkle-prone outer-eye areas—it will just accentuate them more.DO place a luminous cream onto the brow bones and inner corners of eyes to brighten and illuminate. We like Benefit Cosmetics Watt’s Up! Soft Focus Highlighter For Face.

If you have acne

If you have acneDO choose formulas that will help, not hurt, your skin. Levy suggests a mineral-based liquid or powder highlighter, because it won’t clog pores or exacerbate texture issues, such as existing breakouts or pockmarks from severe acne. Try Jane Iredale Quad Bronzer.DON’T ever put any kind of illuminating cream over puffy, bumpy skin. “The goal with highlighting is to diffuse light and create a glow, without drawing attention to any imperfections,” says Schlip. “If the pimples are flat, proceed as normal. If they’re raised, however, avoid that area completely.”DO choose appropriate undertones. Schlip likes shades in the neutral to golden category (such as white gold) for acne-prone skin, since pinks tend to accentuate redness. Apply to the high parts of the cheekbones or across the eyelids to brighten the eyes.