Cat eyes or winged liner is the most iconic, timeless, and challenging look to create. While it seems simple and seductive, it takes effort, precision, and patience to execute a crisp, black flick. Now, it’s time to make way for her sister, the reverse cat-eye.
What is the reverse cat eye? Well, instead of applying eyeliner to the top of your lash line, you leave it empty. Then, you only use the eyeliner on your bottom lash and water line for a smokey effect. Next, you can still add a flick for a cat-eye shape at the outer corner of your eye.
The Tools You Need
To create the ultimate reverse cat-eye look, you will need a few products. However, most of them are most likely makeup products you already own, especially if you’re familiar with winged eyeliner.
– Eye Kohl/Pencil Eyeliner or Gel Eyeliner
– Thin Eyeliner Brush
– Fluffy Eyeshadow Brush For Blending
Most people opt for a black cat-eye look, but the beauty of this technique is that you can choose any color to create an impact. In addition, the reverse cat-eye is even more accessible for beginners to recreate because there is less precision and pressure to draw a perfectly straight line.
How to Achieve the Reverse Cat Eye
Step 1: Fill The Waterline
Take your eyeliner of choice, whether a pencil, kohl, or gel eyeliner, and start filling in your waterline. Make sure the product is evenly distributed and opaque to reach a smooth finish.
Step 2: Apply Eyeliner To The Lower Lash Line and Blend
Now, this part is tricky. To achieve the best results, use a little product at a time. You can always add product, but you can never take it away.
For example, take your eyeliner and gently fill in all the gaps between your bottom lashes. This will help you achieve a professional and seamless look.
Once those gaps have been filled, it’s time to take your blending brush and gently buff out any harsh lines.
Step 3: Add Eyeshadow
Next, slowly take a little bit of eyeshadow at a time and blend it under your bottom lash line. This is where you will create a smokey, gradient effect for the seductive cat-eye.
Again, use a little bit of eyeshadow to build up your desired intensity slowly. This method will also help you avoid raccoon eyes or receiving a muddy finish.
In addition, keep this smokey look away from the inner and outer corners. You will want both ends to taper into a flick.
Step 4: Wing It Out
The easiest way to create a flattering winged liner or cat eye is to look at yourself straight in the mirror with your face completely relaxed. This will ensure that you are creating the correct shape that won’t fold into your crease.
For those with hooded lids of deep-set eyes, start your flick a little further than your eye socket. This method will create the illusion that you have more lid space than you actually do.
Starting from the bottom lash line and slightly further out from your eye socket, create a tapered line with your eyeliner of choice. Then, connect it to the top of your lash line. But, only connect the line to the very outermost point of your top lash line.
The whole point of the reverse cat-eye is to avoid applying eyeliner to your top lash line. So, connecting the line to the outermost point will give you the desired effect.
Now, you can go back in with your blending brush. Buff your smokey under-eye to the base of your wing.
Step 5: Inner Corner Flick
The inner corner flick is the smallest detail that will bring the whole look together. Now you will need your eyeliner brush to achieve a precise line.
Then, all you need to do is extend the smokey under-eye with a straight and slightly tapered line.
You can first map this out with eyeshadow to create a guide. This guide will show you how the eyeliner will sit and if you don’t like it, it will be easier to remove and start again.
Extend the flick towards your nose with the same tapered effect you used for the outer corner.
Step 6: Finishing Touches
Now you can add mascara, false lashes, or whatever your heart desires. Finish your makeup however you would like.
Pro Tip: To create a seamless look, tight line your upper lash line. This is the waterline of your upper lash line, not the top of your eyelid. Tightlining will give you the look of fuller and thicker lashes.