Old rule: Go bright or go homeNew school: Embrace your dark(er) sideSpring lip color usually means punchy shades like coral, bright pink and 2014’s standout star, tangerine. But a deeper hue can look gorgeous when the temperature starts to rise. Case in point: Nicole Miller’s Spring 2014 show, where models sported a beautiful berry lip, and Helmut Lang, where a crimson mouth was the order of the day. “Poppy or fuchsia shades work well on bronzed skin, but if you want to break the rules, go in the opposite direction,” says New York City makeup artist Carmindy. “Keep your skin protected with sunscreen and go for a deeper lip.” Try crimson or berry if you have fair to medium skin, and garnet, chocolate or merlot if you have darker skin. “Just make sure to choose a formula that’s sheer and moisturizing,” Carmindy says. “Dry, opaque formulas can look too severe.”Try:Aveda Nourish-Mint Sheer Mineral Lip Color in Sheer Muscadine ($16) a hydrating formula with plant and fruit waxes to help soften lip lines, in a beautiful sheer red-wine hue.Laura Geller Love Me Dew Moisturizing Lip Crayon in Plum Freeze ($16). This supersize pencil feels like a balm but gives lips a nice color payoff, with Vitamin E for moisture and a just-glossy-enough plum tint.

Embrace your dark(er) side

Old rule: Go easy on the eyesNew school: Smoke it upWhen models walk the spring runways, their lids and lashes usually lean more towards understated than in-your-face. But at Jill Stuart’s Spring 2014 show, makeup artist Aaron de Mey broke the rules beautifully, creating a smoky eye inspired by “rock stars’ girlfriends.” His one concession to spring: A hint of shimmery silver shadow on the inner corner. Get the look by lining your top and bottom lids (including the waterline) with black pencil, smudging charcoal shadow on your lids, then dusting silver shadow on your inner corners. Finish up by coating your top lashes with black mascara. (Rock star boyfriend entirely optional.)Try:L’Oréal Paris Silkissime Eyeliner by Infallible in Black ($9), a tug-free pencil that lives up to its “designed to glide on like silk” marketing hype. And because it’s a long-wear formula, it’s a good choice for lining the easy-to-smear waterline area.L’Oréal Paris Infallible Eye Shadow in Silver Sky ($8). Dust a smidge of this silver shadow in your inner corners to lighten up a smoky eye. Perfect for spring.Sephora Collection Outrageous Volume Mascara in Black ($15). The last step to any smoky eye: black mascara. This formula has hyaluronic acid to help keep lashes conditioned.

Spring Makeup ‘Rules’ to Break

Old rule: Switch to pastelsNew school: Join the navyA shimmery cream shadow in a deep navy blue looks fresh and unexpected for spring. Think ocean-at-night rather than Easter egg. “Prep your lids with a little powder before applying your cream shadow, and apply it on the lid and under your lower lashline only,” says Carmindy. “Not in the crease, which can get messy.” Then blend a powder shadow in an ever-so-slightly lighter shade of blue into the crease, and apply highlighter under your brows and in your inner corners.Try:Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Nightfall ($25), a beautiful deep blue that’s easy to smudge on with a fingertip or shadow brush.Flower Eyes on the Prize Eyeshadow Chubby in Dark Side of the Blue ($8), a paraben-free formula in a no-sharpening-required jumbo pencil. For a sheer application, swirl your fingertip over the pencil and lightly pat on lids.Carmindy & Co. Carmindizing Highlighter Duo in Ethereal ($27). One half is a cream highlighter and the other half is a powder. We like applying the cream to the browbone and the powder to the inner corners.

Join the navy

Old rule: Step away from the foundationNew school: Be an ace of baseUsed to be makeup artists recommended ditching foundation during the spring and summer months and trading down to a tinted moisturizer. But now, there’s a host of new high-coverage formulas that look and feel super light and breathable. So if you prefer the coverage of foundation, there’s no need to switch over to formulas with less oomph when the weather warms up. Apply with your fingers for the most coverage, or try Carmindy’s trick: “Prep a sponge with primer or moisturizer and use that to blend on your foundation,” she says.Try:Becca Ultimate Coverage Complexion Cream ($44). This full-coverage formula is highly concentrated, so you need a much smaller amount than you would with a traditional foundation. We love that it comes in a range of shades for every skintone, from super-light porcelain to deep cocoa.Eve Lom Natural Radiance Mineral Powder Foundation ($50). If you prefer a powder finish, the cult U.K. skincare brand introduces a weightless mineral foundation with light-reflecting amethyst, ruby and rose quartz particles to illuminate the skin and blur imperfections.

Be an ace of base

Old rule: Say hello to shimmerNew school: Meet matteSpring blushes and bronzers usually have more sparkle than a Broadway show, but a few new spring offerings prove just how fresh and pretty a matte cheek can be. “Some areas of the face need a glow, but it doesn’t always have to be your blush or bronzer,” says Carmindy. “It’s soft and romantic to do a matte cheek, and not as typical.” Bonus: If you struggle with large pores or oily skin, a non-shimmery cheek can work wonders. The matte finish downplays pores and helps keep oil in check.Try:Nars Matte Mulitple in Cappadoce ($39). This matte, golden bronze works on a range of skintones. Apply it straight from the tube for more impact, or dampen your fingertips and dab on for a sheerer effect.Palladio Herbal Matte Blush in Berry Pink ($7). This pretty pink is on the cool side, so it pairs perfectly with a berry lip. Kaolin clay and zinc oxide give a fresh matte finish, while chamomile extract adds an antioxidant boost.

Meet matte

The old rule: Neutrals on nails, brights on toesThe new school: Play the bluesSure, ballet pink nails and cherry red toenails look gorgeous—we’re not saying they don’t. But why not break the rules and try something a little more attention-getting this spring? “I think it’s great not to follow the typical script of using light colors on nails and darker colors on toes,” says New York City manicurist Jin Soon Choi. “Try a darker shade on your fingernails and a light color on your toes, just to have fun and mix things up a bit.” Color wise, she suggests breaking the typical spring mold and trying cool hues like white, blue or metallic turquoise. Different? Yep. Gorgeous? Absolutely.Try:Jin Soon Kookie White ($18). Trade your usual sheer pink for this super-chic white with hints of blue and gray. It’s 5-free (not just 3-free), so your nails will thank you.Butter London in Airy Fairy ($15), a medium, metallic turquoise that complements every skin tone, from fair to dark.

Play the blues